I spent 7 days with a good friend who generously agreed to travel with me to the mountains. We left hot Delhi one evening and 14 hours later, we were in heaven. We first did one of the things I enjoy the most when in India: traveling by train! There's something very special about trains. Perhaps that they remind me a couple of the best childhood times with my family, in my country, which has fewer and fewer trains every year, but also because there is some special magic about traveling by train, observing the landscapes, and something that we do not have in my country: sleeper trains! sleeping in a train is a very interesting experience!
Starting by the ordeal of buying a train ticket online, which always requires the help of an Indian friend, one finds that they sell tickets according to categories based on the quality of the coach. Some first class ones offer tea and food during the journey, which is very convenient, and it is good to feel pampered from time to time in India. It is recommended that foreigners (especially if female solo travelers) travel in first, second or third class, as it is safer and more comfortable, plus one avoids the constant staring of dozens of men. Believe me: as a foreigner with white skin, it is not nice to sleep OR ride in a train full of Indian men, so I always try to adjust my budget to be in at least the 3A category, and I make sure that if sheets and bedspreads are not provided, I take my own, so no man can see me sleep (hiding is key sometimes). In 2A, one can find up to 6 'beds' in each area, and every coach may have about 10 areas, so multiply by the number of coaches in a train and you'll have an idea of how many people in India travel overnight by train.
After the train ride to Pathankok, a place with very pleasant weather already, we took a bus to Dharamshala, and as we rode the high mountains, I would not only enjoy the cool breeze and the scenic view, but also compare this land to my own, finding lots of similarities. As we got to Mcleodganj, I was alredy in love with the place! the fog made it hard to see 100 meters ahead the road, but the vegetation was incredibly beautiful. We found ourselves a nice, cheap hotel in Bhashu, 15 minutes from Mcleod, another piece of heaven in India. A touristic destination, Bhasu is a rather small place, though full of commerce in its central area. If you want to go uphill, you will find a Vipassana meditation center (ohhh... had I known I would have done it here!!), several hotels and restaurants, all with this hippy feel that I enjoy so much. You'll see people from any corner of the world, all looking peaceful and rested.
Both in Bhashu and in 'Mcleod', the nicest surprise for me was to see these Bhuddist monks everywhere, all heads shaved, all wearing the traditional burgundy and yellowish garments. What was funny was to see some young ones from time to time using huge headphones (just like any teenager in my country), playing table games at some restaurant, or doing things that 'we mortals do'. Somehow in my head I would have thought that these monks were dedicated 100% of the time to 'holy' activities. It was also nice to see girls studying, so they wore the same clothes, shaved heads and all.
During our peaceful week there of course our first stop was the Dalai Lama temple, which to my surprise, was open to the public, and it was much more humble than, say... the Vatican! zero ostentation... just a simple building and his private residency. We were not able to see him, as he was out of town, but people say that meeting him is not hard, as he is kind to everyone and easily agrees to greet visitors. In any case, the atmosphere there is full of nice people, and not a follower of Bhuddism myself, I could feel good energy there.
Another day we went to a gorgeous waterfall in Bhashu. You just have to hike some 15 minutes to get to the first station (where most people end up), and if you want to go on, hike for another 15 minutes, and you'll find yourself at, I would say, halfway the top of the waterfall.
Drinking water there, knowing that it came from the depth of the mountains, and that it was 100% pure, was bliss! At this station there is some kind of cafe where people can chill, sit or even lie down on some small 'mattresses'. I know I did! My friend and I talked for hours there, had french fries (my all-time favorite snack anywhere in the world), drank pure water, and came back to reality when it started to become very foggy.
Being surrounded by these majestic mountains, breathing this pure air, listening to water running freely and enjoying the sun on your face every morning was heaven. In the morning I was able to go out of my room to work on the computer, and write these lines, looking at the beauty of nature, listening to birds chirping, feeling the cool breeze on my skin.
A place to remember, definitely, and so far the most peaceful place where I have been in India so far. Unaware of the time... simply enjoying nature...








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